Zoom Vietnamese & Thai Cuisine

The posts upon which the ceiling beams rest are photo galleries: craggy cliffs in a deep blue bay and villagers harvesting salt from a lagoon in Vietnam. Loud colors—coral, aqua—crackle off the walls. Zoom is a Thai-Vietnamese linkage, and the results can be extraordinary. The deep-fried fish cakes are supple and moist, the chicken soup with lemongrass is bright and complexly layered with flavor. Decent wines, too, which work well with most of this food as long as it doesn’t zoom in with a blast of chili.